Lanvin Group Shows Resiliency in Sales and On-Track Margin Improvement in 2023
Revenue Continues Year-o ver -Year Growth Trend
- Revenue of €426 million for FY2023, a 1% increase over FY2022 despite macroeconomic headwinds
- Continued margin improvement with Group gross profit margin increasing to 59% and both contribution profit(1) and adjusted EBITDA margins steadily improving
- Resilient performance of the brands through challenging market environment; Lanvin brand showed improving trend in the second half of the year while overall industry faced strong headwinds
- Steady regional performance highlighted by nearly 8% growth in APAC
- Improving store metrics with steady DTC revenue on a lower base of stores showed footprint rationalization strategy on track; first Middle East Lanvin location opened in
Riyadh with two more anticipated in the coming months - On track for cashflow breakeven in 2025 with Caruso achieving breakeven Adjusted EBITDA in 2023 and two additional brands expected to achieve Adjusted EBITDA breakeven in 2024
We are a group of brands with a provenance and heritage second-to-none, and I am proud of what we have accomplished in 2023. We are collectively on a journey, and I am very optimistic about our future."
Review of the Full-Year 2023 Results
Lanvin Group Revenue by Segment |
||||||||
(€ in Thousands, unless otherwise noted) |
||||||||
by Brand |
Revenue |
Growth % |
||||||
2020A |
2021A |
2022A |
2023A |
2021A v |
2022 A v |
2023 A v |
20-23 |
|
FY |
FY |
FY |
FY |
2020A |
2021 A |
2022 A |
CAGR |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Lanvin |
34,989 |
72,872 |
119,847 |
111,740 |
108 % |
64 % |
-7 % |
47 % |
Wolford |
95,384 |
109,332 |
125,514 |
126,280 |
15 % |
15 % |
1 % |
10 % |
St. John |
66,512 |
73,094 |
85,884 |
90,398 |
10 % |
17 % |
5 % |
11 % |
|
0 |
28,737 |
61,929 |
59,518 |
|
116 % |
-4 % |
|
Caruso |
26,351 |
24,695 |
30,819 |
40,011 |
-6 % |
25 % |
30 % |
15 % |
Total Brand |
223,236 |
308,730 |
423,993 |
427,947 |
38 % |
37 % |
1 % |
24 % |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Eliminations |
-624 |
92 |
-1,681 |
-1,769 |
-115 % |
-1927 % |
5 % |
42 % |
|
222,612 |
308,822 |
422,312 |
426,178 |
39 % |
37 % |
1 % |
24 % |
Lanvin Group Key Financials |
||||||||
(€ in Thousands, unless otherwise noted) |
||||||||
Lanvin Group Key |
2020A |
2021A |
2022A |
2023A |
||||
FY |
% |
FY |
% |
FY |
% |
FY |
% |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Revenue |
222,612 |
100 % |
308,822 |
100 % |
422,312 |
100 % |
426,178 |
100 % |
Gross profit |
117,394 |
53 % |
169,902 |
55 % |
237,944 |
56 % |
250,942 |
59 % |
Contribution profit |
-34,237 |
-15 % |
4,400 |
1 % |
13,211 |
3 % |
24,192 |
6 % |
Adjusted EBITDA |
-88,116 |
-40 % |
-58,945 |
-19 % |
-71,958 |
-17 % |
-64,173 |
-15 % |
Selected Highlights
Maintained growth trend: In the face of growing headwinds for the industry, the Group maintained growth with a 1% improvement over the prior year. All brands showed resiliency and maintained steady revenue in EMEA and
Continued positive progress with margin profile: Margins at all levels, gross profit, contribution profit, and Adjusted EBITDA saw improvement in 2023. Gross margin increased to 59% from 56%, contribution profit margin improved to 6% from 3%, and Adjusted EBITDA as a percentage of sales improved by 198bps from 2022.
Refocused brand and product strategies showing results: One of the main drivers of growth in 2023 was the refocus of brand strategies and optimization of product categories and mix. New product lines and categories, collaborations, and a focus on accessories all impacted the growth and margins. Lanvin brand went through a creative transition in 2023, further cementing the vision for the future of the Group to harness each brand's legacy and utilize its archives as we evolve our product categories and offerings.
Significant progress optimizing store network: The Group continued to cull its footprint with the closure of 36 stores while successfully launching 24 new retail doors, systemwide. Improved store strategies implemented in 2023 provided better unit economics, with the Group's DTC revenue remaining steady despite an overall reduction of retail doors. Improved store metrics from strategic changes implemented starting in 2022 have paved the way for Lanvin to grow its base significantly with five, net new locations and its first in the
Discussion of FY2023 Financials
Revenue
For FY2023, the Group generated revenue of €426 million, a 1% increase year-over-year. The DTC and Wholesale channels were slightly down, but e-Commerce sales (a part of the DTC channel) grew by 3%. Other revenue, which includes royalty income rose significantly, benefiting from the reacquisition of Lanvin's Japanese trademarks in
Gross Profit
Gross profit increased to €251 million, representing a 59% margin versus €238 million in 2022 at a margin of 56%. The improvement in gross profit margin was driven by increasing accessories as a proportion of sales, and continued emphasis on higher-margin DTC revenue as a proportion of total sales. Additionally, refining the product offerings helped improve inventory management, with more core products with higher sell-through rates.
Contribution Profit (1)
The Group uses a measure, internally, called contribution profit, defined as gross profit less selling & marketing expenses to gauge the variable profitability performance and analyze the improvements at our brands. Contribution profit for the year was €24 million, representing a 6% margin and an improvement of €11 million from 2022. The contribution profit is more than five times higher than in 2021, the first year of positive contribution profit. The Group continues to show steady progress in managing its operating expenses and increasing margins.
Adjusted EBITDA
Adjusted EBITDA remained at loss for 2023, but as a percentage of sales, continued to improve going from (19%) in 2021 to (17%) in 2022 and (15%) in 2023.
Results by Segment
Lanvin: Revenue was down, but the brand improved the trend in the second half of 2023, improving from a 11% decrease in the first half to land at a decrease of 7% for the full year with revenue of €112 million. Gross profit increased to €65 million, at a margin of 58%, from €61 million, at a margin of 50%, in 2022. Gross profit improved from higher full-price sell-through, an increase in the balance of accessories versus ready-to-where sales, a further shift to higher-margin boutique sales, and better inventory management. Contribution profit continued to improve going from a contribution loss of €15 million in 2022 to a contribution loss of €12 million in 2023 with the percentage of sales improving year-over-year from negative 13% to negative 11%.
Wolford: Revenue grew slightly by 1%. Gross profit decreased to €83 million from €86 million, in 2022, and margin declined from 69% to 66% due to a reclassification of expenses. Contribution profit remained steady at €4 million in 2023 at a margin of 3%.
St. John: Revenue increased by 5%, from €86 million to €90 million.
Caruso: Revenue increased significantly by 30% going from €31 million to €40 million in 2023. Growth came from an expansion of production capacity and additions to its specialized workforce. Caruso continued its strong, steady performance with its gross profit increasing from €7 million to €11 million in 2023, and margin increasing from 23% to 28%. Contribution profit also increased from €6 million to €9 million, and contribution profit margin increased markedly from 18% to 24%. Profitability improved by streamlining production and higher sell-through of its proprietary Caruso brand products. Caruso achieved breakeven Adjusted EBITDA for the year.
2024 Outlook
The macroeconomy remains uncertain, but regions like
The Group plans to approach the market tactically to capture growth opportunities and market share. With one brand Adjusted EBITDA breakeven in 2023 and two additional brands expected to be in 2024, the Group is making significant progress in its path to profitability; and with much of the legwork of streamlining the organization completed, the Group sees scale expansion as a key driver of profitability, for 2024 and beyond.
The Group is built upon a collaborative eco-system and continues to work with their strategic partners to build the platform. As such, one of the Group's focuses in 2024 will be the continued development of its eco-system with additional strategic partners that will facilitate regional growth, improve logistics and expand product categories.
Note: All % changes are calculated on an actual currency exchange rate basis. |
Note: This communication includes certain non-IFRS financial measures such as contribution profit, contribution margin, adjusted earnings before interest and taxes ("Adjusted EBIT"), and adjusted earnings before interest, taxes, depreciation and amortization ("Adjusted EBITDA"). Please see Non-IFRS Financial Measures and Definition. |
(1) Contribution profit defined as gross profit less Selling and Marketing Expenses |
Annual Report on Form 20-F
Our annual report on Form 20-F, including the consolidated financial statements for the fiscal year ended
Conference Call
As previously announced, today at
A replay of the conference call will be accessible approximately one hour after the live call until
US Toll Free: 1-877-344-7529
International Toll: 1-412-317-0088
Canada Toll Free: 855-669-9658
Replay Access Code: 1551559
A recorded webcast of the conference call and a slide presentation will also be available on the Group's investor relations website at https://ir.lanvin-group.com.
Next Scheduled Announcement
The next scheduled announcement will be the H1 2024 earnings results release in
About
Forward-Looking Statements
This communication, including the section "2024 Outlook", contains "forward-looking statements" within the meaning of the "safe harbor" provisions of the Private Securities Litigation Reform Act of 1995. Forward-looking statements generally are accompanied by words such as "believe," "may," "will," "estimate," "continue," "anticipate," "intend," "expect," "should," "would," "plan," "predict," "potential," "seem," "seek," "future," "outlook," "project" and similar expressions that predict or indicate future events or trends or that are not statements of historical matters. These forward-looking statements include, but are not limited to, statements regarding estimates and forecasts of other financial and performance metrics and projections of market opportunity. These statements are based on various assumptions, whether or not identified in this communication, and on the current expectations of the respective management of
Use of Non-IFRS Financial Metrics
This communication includes certain non-IFRS financial measures such as contribution profit, contribution margin, adjusted earnings before interest and taxes ("Adjusted EBIT"), and adjusted earnings before interest, taxes, depreciation and amortization ("Adjusted EBITDA"). These non-IFRS measures are an addition, and not a substitute for or superior to measures of financial performance prepared in accordance with IFRS and should not be considered as an alternative to net income, operating income or any other performance measures derived in accordance with IFRS. Reconciliations of non-IFRS measures to their most directly comparable IFRS counterparts are included in the Appendix to this communication.
Enquiries:
Media
Hezhi Zhang
hezhi.zhang@lanvin-group.com
Investors
james.kim@lanvin-group.com
Appendix
Lanvin Group Consolidated Income Statement |
||||||||||||||||||||||
(€ in Thousands, unless otherwise noted) |
||||||||||||||||||||||
Lanvin Group Consolidated P&L |
2020A |
2021A |
2022A |
2023A |
|
|||||||||||||||||
FY |
% |
FY |
% |
FY |
% |
FY |
% |
|
||||||||||||||
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|||||||||||||
Revenue |
222,612 |
100 % |
308,822 |
100 % |
422,312 |
100 % |
426,178 |
100 % |
|
|||||||||||||
Cost of sales |
-105,218 |
-47 % |
-138,920 |
-45 % |
-184,368 |
-44 % |
-175,236 |
-41 % |
|
|||||||||||||
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|||||||||||||
Gross profit |
117,394 |
53 % |
169,902 |
55 % |
237,944 |
56 % |
250,942 |
59 % |
|
|||||||||||||
Marketing and selling expenses |
-151,631 |
-68 % |
-165,502 |
-54 % |
-224,733 |
-53 % |
-226,750 |
-53 % |
|
|||||||||||||
General and administrative expenses |
-115,181 |
-52 % |
-122,497 |
-40 % |
-153,138 |
-36 % |
-138,215 |
-32 % |
|
|||||||||||||
Other operating income and expenses |
-18,399 |
-8 % |
10,083 |
3 % |
-2,340 |
-1 % |
-4,534 |
-1 % |
|
|||||||||||||
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|||||||||||||
Loss from operations before non-underlying items |
-167,817 |
-75 % |
-108,014 |
-35 % |
-142,267 |
-34 % |
-118,557 |
-28 % |
|
|||||||||||||
Non-underlying items (1) |
43,546 |
20 % |
45,206 |
15 % |
-83,057 |
-20 % |
-3,858 |
-1 % |
|
|||||||||||||
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|||||||||||||
Loss from operations |
-124,271 |
-56 % |
-62,808 |
-20 % |
-225,324 |
-53 % |
-122,415 |
-29 % |
|
|||||||||||||
Finance cost – net |
-12,989 |
-6 % |
-9,313 |
-3 % |
-14,556 |
-3 % |
-20,431 |
-5 % |
|
|||||||||||||
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|||||||||||||
Loss before income tax |
-137,260 |
-62 % |
-72,121 |
-23 % |
-239,880 |
-57 % |
-142,846 |
-34 % |
|
|||||||||||||
Income tax expenses |
1,603 |
1 % |
-4,331 |
-1 % |
129 |
0 % |
-3,407 |
-1 % |
|
|||||||||||||
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|||||||||||||
Loss for the period |
-135,657 |
-61 % |
-76,452 |
-25 % |
-239,751 |
-57 % |
-146,253 |
-34 % |
|
|||||||||||||
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|||||||||||||
Contribution profit (2) |
-34,237 |
-15 % |
4,400 |
1 % |
13,211 |
3 % |
24,192 |
6 % |
|
|||||||||||||
Adjusted EBIT (2) |
-162,428 |
-73 % |
-100,806 |
-33 % |
-134,836 |
-32 % |
-115,808 |
-27 % |
|
|||||||||||||
Adjusted EBITDA (2) |
-88,116 |
-40 % |
-58,945 |
-19 % |
-71,958 |
-17 % |
-64,173 |
-15 % |
|
|||||||||||||
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Lanvin Group Consolidated Balance Sheet |
||||
(€ in Thousands, unless otherwise noted) |
||||
Lanvin Group Consolidated Balance Sheet |
2020A |
2021A |
2022A |
2023A |
FY |
FY |
FY |
FY |
|
|
|
|
|
|
Assets |
|
|
|
|
Non-current assets |
|
|
|
|
Intangible assets |
175,542 |
181,234 |
181,485 |
210,439 |
|
69,323 |
69,323 |
69,323 |
69,323 |
Property, plant and equipment |
26,879 |
40,564 |
46,801 |
43,731 |
Right-of-use assets |
117,917 |
118,775 |
121,731 |
128,853 |
Deferred income tax assets |
13,608 |
17,070 |
17,297 |
13,427 |
Other non-current assets |
8,280 |
15,742 |
15,265 |
15,540 |
|
411,549 |
442,708 |
451,902 |
481,313 |
Current assets |
|
|
|
|
Inventories |
75,842 |
92,335 |
109,094 |
107,184 |
Trade receivables |
22,191 |
39,781 |
48,868 |
45,657 |
Other current assets |
23,353 |
41,706 |
30,467 |
25,650 |
Cash and bank balances |
44,935 |
88,981 |
91,897 |
28,130 |
|
166,321 |
262,803 |
280,326 |
206,621 |
Total assets |
577,870 |
705,511 |
732,228 |
687,934 |
|
|
|
|
|
Liabilities |
|
|
|
|
Non-current liabilities |
|
|
|
|
Non-current borrowings |
11,399 |
11,212 |
18,115 |
32,381 |
Non-current lease liabilities |
104,382 |
102,987 |
105,986 |
112,898 |
Non-current provisions |
3,286 |
4,166 |
4,111 |
3,174 |
Employee benefits |
19,085 |
18,464 |
15,128 |
17,972 |
Deferred income tax liabilities |
53,284 |
54,179 |
54,660 |
52,804 |
Other non-current liabilities |
1,338 |
1,080 |
690 |
14,733 |
|
192,774 |
192,088 |
198,690 |
233,962 |
Current liabilities |
|
|
|
|
Trade payables |
47,436 |
58,151 |
73,114 |
78,576 |
Bank overdrafts |
764 |
14 |
148 |
280 |
Current borrowings |
7,438 |
55,559 |
15,370 |
35,720 |
Current lease liabilities |
32,503 |
37,072 |
34,605 |
32,871 |
Current provisions |
2,490 |
3,141 |
3,014 |
6,270 |
Other current liabilities |
44,070 |
68,660 |
106,481 |
134,627 |
|
134,701 |
222,597 |
232,732 |
288,344 |
Total liabilities |
327,475 |
414,685 |
431,422 |
522,306 |
Net assets |
250,395 |
290,826 |
300,806 |
165,628 |
Equity |
|
|
|
|
Equity attributable to owners of the Company |
|
|
|
|
Share capital |
289,165 |
339,259 |
0 |
0 |
|
0 |
-3 |
-25,023 |
-65,405 |
Other reserves |
81,198 |
149,460 |
762,962 |
806,677 |
Accumulated losses |
-158,974 |
-224,328 |
-442,618 |
-571,931 |
|
211,389 |
264,388 |
295,320 |
169,341 |
Non- controlling interests |
39,006 |
26,438 |
5,486 |
-3,713 |
Total equity |
250,395 |
290,826 |
300,806 |
165,628 |
Lanvin Group Consolidated Cash Flow |
||||
(€ in Thousands, unless otherwise noted) |
||||
Lanvin Group Consolidated Cash Flow |
2020A |
2021A |
2022A |
2023A |
FY |
FY |
FY |
FY |
|
|
|
|
|
|
Net cash used in operating activities |
-87,297 |
-73,088 |
-80,851 |
-57,891 |
Net cash flows from/(used in) investing activities |
67,038 |
6,346 |
-21,799 |
-38,615 |
Net cash flows generated from financing activities |
-41,447 |
110,065 |
104,937 |
34,131 |
Net increase/(decrease) in cash and cash equivalents |
-61,706 |
43,323 |
2,287 |
-62,375 |
|
|
|
|
|
Cash and cash equivalents less bank overdrafts at the beginning of the |
106,642 |
44,171 |
88,658 |
91,749 |
Effect of foreign exchange rate changes |
-765 |
1,164 |
804 |
-1,524 |
Cash and cash equivalents less bank overdrafts at end of the year |
44,171 |
88,658 |
91,749 |
27,850 |
Lanvin Brand Key Financials (3) |
|||||||||||||
(€ in Thousands, unless otherwise noted) |
|||||||||||||
Lanvin Brand Key Financials |
2020A |
2021A |
2022A |
2023A |
|
2021 A v |
2022 A v |
2023 A v |
20-23 |
||||
FY |
% |
FY |
% |
FY |
% |
FY |
% |
|
2020 A |
2021 A |
2022 A |
CAGR |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Key Financials on P&L |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Revenues |
34,989 |
100 % |
72,872 |
100 % |
119,847 |
100 % |
111,740 |
100 % |
|
108 % |
64 % |
-7 % |
47 % |
Gross profit |
13,573 |
39 % |
34,028 |
47 % |
60,513 |
50 % |
64,547 |
58 % |
|
|
|
|
|
Selling and distribution expenses |
-43,147 |
-123 % |
-58,124 |
-80 % |
-75,852 |
-63 % |
-76,533 |
-68 % |
|
|
|
|
|
Contribution profit (2) |
-29,574 |
-85 % |
-24,096 |
-33 % |
-15,339 |
-13 % |
-11,986 |
-11 % |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Revenues by Geography |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
EMEA |
18,501 |
53 % |
31,683 |
43 % |
61,092 |
51 % |
51,585 |
46 % |
|
71 % |
93 % |
-16 % |
41 % |
|
4,525 |
13 % |
15,964 |
22 % |
28,524 |
24 % |
28,210 |
25 % |
|
253 % |
79 % |
-1 % |
84 % |
|
10,054 |
29 % |
23,541 |
32 % |
25,742 |
21 % |
24,649 |
22 % |
|
134 % |
9 % |
-4 % |
35 % |
Other |
1,909 |
5 % |
1,684 |
2 % |
4,489 |
4 % |
7,296 |
7 % |
|
-12 % |
167 % |
63 % |
56 % |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Revenues by Channel |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
DTC |
16,959 |
48 % |
46,134 |
63 % |
58,536 |
49 % |
55,357 |
50 % |
|
172 % |
27 % |
-5 % |
48 % |
Wholesale |
12,974 |
37 % |
21,161 |
29 % |
51,898 |
43 % |
39,933 |
36 % |
|
63 % |
145 % |
-23 % |
45 % |
Other |
5,056 |
14 % |
5,577 |
8 % |
9,413 |
8 % |
16,450 |
15 % |
|
10 % |
69 % |
75 % |
48 % |
Wolford Brand Key Financials (3) |
|||||||||||||
(€ in Thousands, unless otherwise noted) |
|||||||||||||
Wolford Brand Key Financials |
2020A |
2021A |
2022A |
2023A |
|
2021 A v |
2022 A v |
2023 A v |
20-23 |
||||
FY |
% |
FY |
% |
FY |
% |
FY |
% |
|
2020 A |
2021 A |
2022 A |
CAGR |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Key Financials on P&L |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Revenues |
95,384 |
100 % |
109,332 |
100 % |
125,514 |
100 % |
126,280 |
100 % |
|
15 % |
15 % |
1 % |
10 % |
Gross profit |
65,865 |
69 % |
79,070 |
72 % |
86,228 |
69 % |
83,339 |
66 % |
|
|
|
|
|
Selling and distribution expenses |
-65,006 |
-68 % |
-59,351 |
-54 % |
-81,901 |
-65 % |
-79,060 |
-63 % |
|
|
|
|
|
Contribution profit (2) |
859 |
1 % |
19,719 |
18 % |
4,327 |
3 % |
4,279 |
3 % |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Revenues by Geography |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
EMEA |
73,794 |
77 % |
79,236 |
72 % |
86,501 |
69 % |
85,084 |
67 % |
|
7 % |
9 % |
-2 % |
5 % |
|
16,367 |
17 % |
21,824 |
20 % |
31,535 |
25 % |
31,310 |
25 % |
|
33 % |
44 % |
-1 % |
24 % |
|
4,867 |
5 % |
7,289 |
7 % |
6,791 |
5 % |
9,176 |
7 % |
|
50 % |
-7 % |
35 % |
24 % |
Other |
356 |
0 % |
983 |
1 % |
687 |
1 % |
710 |
1 % |
|
176 % |
-30 % |
3 % |
26 % |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Revenues by Channel |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
DTC |
62,323 |
65 % |
74,622 |
68 % |
90,408 |
72 % |
87,352 |
69 % |
|
20 % |
21 % |
-3 % |
12 % |
Wholesale |
33,061 |
35 % |
34,710 |
32 % |
34,426 |
27 % |
38,071 |
30 % |
|
5 % |
-1 % |
11 % |
5 % |
Other |
0 |
0 % |
0 |
0 % |
680 |
1 % |
857 |
1 % |
|
|
|
26 % |
|
Sergio Rossi Brand Key Financials (3) |
|||||||||||||
(€ in Thousands, unless otherwise noted) |
|||||||||||||
Sergio Rossi Brand Key Financials |
2020A |
2021A |
2022A |
2023A |
|
2021 A v |
2022 A v |
2023 A v |
20-23 |
||||
FY |
% |
FY |
% |
FY |
% |
FY |
% |
|
2020 A |
2021 A |
2022 A |
CAGR |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Key Financials on P&L |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Revenues |
59,206 |
100 % |
28,737 |
100 % |
61,929 |
100 % |
59,518 |
100 % |
|
5 % |
116 % |
-4 % |
44 % |
Gross profit |
|
|
13,319 |
46 % |
31,048 |
50 % |
30,435 |
51 % |
|
|
|
|
|
Selling and distribution expenses |
|
|
-9,489 |
-33 % |
-24,502 |
-40 % |
-23,097 |
-39 % |
|
|
|
|
|
Contribution profit (2) |
|
|
3,830 |
13 % |
6,546 |
11 % |
7,338 |
12 % |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Revenues by Geography |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
EMEA |
33,435 |
56 % |
17,009 |
59 % |
35,023 |
57 % |
31,801 |
53 % |
|
5 % |
106 % |
-9 % |
37 % |
|
1,290 |
2 % |
107 |
0 % |
1,181 |
2 % |
2,006 |
3 % |
|
-8 % |
1004 % |
70 % |
333 % |
|
11,331 |
19 % |
4,595 |
16 % |
10,809 |
17 % |
11,872 |
20 % |
|
-5 % |
135 % |
10 % |
61 % |
Other |
13,150 |
22 % |
7,027 |
24 % |
14,916 |
24 % |
13,838 |
23 % |
|
13 % |
112 % |
-7 % |
40 % |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Revenues by Channel |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
DTC |
28,911 |
49 % |
14,349 |
50 % |
31,910 |
52 % |
32,962 |
55 % |
|
10 % |
122 % |
3 % |
52 % |
Wholesale |
30,295 |
51 % |
14,389 |
50 % |
30,019 |
48 % |
26,556 |
45 % |
|
-1 % |
109 % |
-12 % |
36 % |
Other |
0 |
0 % |
0 |
0 % |
0 |
0 % |
0 |
0 % |
|
|
|
|
|
St. John Brand Key Financials (3) |
|||||||||||||
(€ in Thousands, unless otherwise noted) |
|||||||||||||
St. John Brand Key Financials |
2020A |
2021A |
2022A |
2023A |
|
2021 A v |
2022 A v |
2023 A v |
20-23 |
||||
FY |
% |
FY |
% |
FY |
% |
FY |
% |
|
2020 A |
2021 A |
2022 A |
CAGR |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Key Financials on P&L |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Revenues |
66,512 |
100 % |
73,094 |
100 % |
85,884 |
100 % |
90,398 |
100 % |
|
10 % |
17 % |
5 % |
11 % |
Gross profit |
32,987 |
50 % |
38,987 |
53 % |
52,642 |
61 % |
57,374 |
63 % |
|
|
|
|
|
Selling and distribution expenses |
-42,273 |
-64 % |
-37,697 |
-52 % |
-42,498 |
-49 % |
-46,695 |
-52 % |
|
|
|
|
|
Contribution profit (2) |
-9,286 |
-14 % |
1,290 |
2 % |
10,144 |
12 % |
10,679 |
12 % |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Revenues by Geography |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
EMEA |
2,254 |
3 % |
779 |
1 % |
1,224 |
1 % |
1,541 |
2 % |
|
-65 % |
57 % |
26 % |
-12 % |
|
60,528 |
91 % |
65,534 |
90 % |
78,774 |
92 % |
81,382 |
90 % |
|
8 % |
20 % |
3 % |
10 % |
|
2,919 |
4 % |
6,467 |
9 % |
5,153 |
6 % |
7,161 |
8 % |
|
122 % |
-20 % |
39 % |
35 % |
Other |
811 |
1 % |
315 |
0 % |
733 |
1 % |
314 |
0 % |
|
-61 % |
133 % |
-57 % |
-27 % |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Revenues by Channel |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
DTC |
44,778 |
67 % |
51,581 |
71 % |
66,412 |
77 % |
71,007 |
79 % |
|
15 % |
29 % |
7 % |
17 % |
Wholesale |
21,734 |
33 % |
21,513 |
29 % |
19,077 |
22 % |
19,126 |
21 % |
|
-1 % |
-11 % |
0 % |
-4 % |
Other |
0 |
0 % |
0 |
0 % |
395 |
0 % |
265 |
0 % |
|
|
|
-33 % |
|
Caruso Brand Key Financials (3) |
|||||||||||||
(€ in Thousands, unless otherwise noted) |
|||||||||||||
Caruso Brand Key Financials |
2020A |
2021A |
2022A |
2023A |
|
2021 A v |
2022 A v |
2023 A v |
20-23 |
||||
FY |
% |
FY |
% |
FY |
% |
FY |
% |
|
2020 A |
2021 A |
2022 A |
CAGR |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Key Financials on P&L |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Revenues |
26,351 |
100 % |
24,695 |
100 % |
30,819 |
100 % |
40,011 |
100 % |
|
-6 % |
25 % |
30 % |
15 % |
Gross profit |
4,881 |
19 % |
4,449 |
18 % |
7,147 |
23 % |
11,351 |
28 % |
|
|
|
|
|
Selling and distribution expenses |
-1,708 |
-6 % |
-1,144 |
-5 % |
-1,446 |
-5 % |
-1,900 |
-5 % |
|
|
|
|
|
Contribution profit (2) |
3,173 |
12 % |
3,305 |
13 % |
5,701 |
18 % |
9,451 |
24 % |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Revenues by Geography |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
EMEA |
20,318 |
77 % |
19,475 |
79 % |
23,050 |
75 % |
33,739 |
84 % |
|
-4 % |
18 % |
46 % |
18 % |
|
4,252 |
16 % |
3,272 |
13 % |
5,833 |
19 % |
4,580 |
11 % |
|
-23 % |
78 % |
-21 % |
3 % |
|
480 |
2 % |
549 |
2 % |
559 |
2 % |
44 |
0 % |
|
14 % |
2 % |
-92 % |
-55 % |
Other |
1,301 |
5 % |
1,399 |
6 % |
1,377 |
4 % |
1,648 |
4 % |
|
8 % |
-2 % |
20 % |
8 % |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Revenues by Channel |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
DTC |
0 |
0 % |
0 |
0 % |
0 |
0 % |
40 |
0 % |
|
|
|
|
|
Wholesale |
26,351 |
100 % |
24,695 |
100 % |
30,819 |
100 % |
39,971 |
100 % |
|
-6 % |
25 % |
30 % |
15 % |
Other |
0 |
0 % |
0 |
0 % |
0 |
0 % |
0 |
0 % |
|
|
|
|
|
Lanvin Group Brand Footprint |
||||||
Footprint by Brand |
2021 |
2022 |
2023 |
|||
DOS (4) |
POS (5) |
DOS (4) |
POS (5) |
DOS (4) |
POS (5) |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Lanvin |
27 |
287 |
31 |
339 |
36 |
319 |
Wolford |
167 |
227 |
163 |
225 |
150 |
201 |
St. John |
48 |
133 |
46 |
106 |
45 |
107 |
|
50 |
328 |
50 |
346 |
48 |
289 |
Caruso |
1 |
144 |
1 |
189 |
0 |
183 |
Total |
293 |
1,119 |
291 |
1,205 |
279 |
1,099 |
Non-IFRS Financial Measures Reconciliation |
||||
(€ in Thousands, unless otherwise noted) |
||||
Reconciliation of Contribution Margin |
2020A |
2021A |
2022A |
2023A |
FY |
FY |
FY |
FY |
|
|
|
|
|
|
Revenue |
222,612 |
308,822 |
422,312 |
426,178 |
Cost of sales |
-105,218 |
-138,920 |
-184,368 |
-175,236 |
Gross profit |
117,394 |
169,902 |
237,944 |
250,942 |
Marketing and selling expenses |
-151,631 |
-165,502 |
-224,733 |
-226,750 |
Contribution profit (2) |
-34,237 |
4,400 |
13,211 |
24,192 |
(€ in Thousands, unless otherwise noted) |
||||
Reconciliation of Adjusted EBIT & EBITDA |
2020A |
2021A |
2022A |
2023A |
FY |
FY |
FY |
FY |
|
|
|
|
|
|
Loss for the year |
-135,657 |
-76,452 |
-239,751 |
-146,253 |
Add / (Deduct) the impact of: |
|
|
|
|
Income tax benefits / (expenses) |
-1,603 |
4,331 |
-129 |
3,407 |
Finance cost—net |
12,989 |
9,313 |
14,556 |
20,431 |
Non-underlying items (1) |
-43,546 |
-45,206 |
83,057 |
3,858 |
Loss from operations before non-underlying items |
-167,817 |
-108,014 |
-142,267 |
-118,557 |
Add / (Deduct) the impact of: |
|
|
|
|
Share based compensation |
5,389 |
7,208 |
7,431 |
2,749 |
Adjusted EBIT (2) |
-162,428 |
-100,806 |
-134,836 |
-115,808 |
Depreciation / Amortization |
48,332 |
41,584 |
45,810 |
46,946 |
Provisions and impairment losses |
22,676 |
10,766 |
16,729 |
79 |
Net foreign exchange (gains) / losses |
3,304 |
-10,489 |
339 |
4,610 |
Adjusted EBITDA (2) |
-88,116 |
-58,945 |
-71,958 |
-64,173 |
Note: |
(1) 2022 was impacted by a €84 million cost related to the Reverse Recapitalization that occurred as part of the SPAC merger; this cost is non-recurring in nature. |
(2) These are Non-IFRS Financial Measures and will be mentioned throughout this communication. Please see Non-IFRS Financial Measures and Definition. |
(3) Brand-level results are presented exclusive of eliminations. |
(4) DOS refers to Directly Operated Stores which include boutiques, outlets, concession shop-in-shops and pop-up stores. |
(5) POS refers to Point of Sales which include DOS and wholesale accounts. |
Non-IFRS Financial Measures and Definition
Our management monitors and evaluates operating and financial performance using several non-IFRS financial measures including: contribution profit, contribution margin, Adjusted EBIT and Adjusted EBITDA. Our management believes that these non-IFRS financial measures provide useful and relevant information regarding our performance and improve their ability to assess financial performance and financial position. They also provide comparable measures that facilitate management's ability to identify operational trends, as well as make decisions regarding future spending, resource allocations and other operational decisions. While similar measures are widely used in the industry in which we operate, the financial measures that we use may not be comparable to other similarly named measures used by other companies nor are they intended to be substitutes for measures of financial performance or financial position as prepared in accordance with IFRS.
Contribution profit is defined as revenue less the cost of sales and selling and marketing expenses. Contribution profit subtracts the main variable expenses of selling and marketing expenses from gross profit, and our management believes this measure is an important indicator of profitability at the marginal level. Below contribution profit, the main expenses are general administrative expenses and other operating expenses (which include foreign exchange gains or losses and impairment losses). As we continue to improve the management of our portfolio brands, we believe we can achieve greater economy of scale across the different brands by maintaining the fixed expenses at a lower level as a proportion of revenue. We therefore use contribution profit margin as a key indicator of profitability at the group level as well as the portfolio brand level.
Contribution margin is defined as contribution profit divided by revenue.
Adjusted EBIT is defined as profit or loss before income taxes, net finance cost, share based compensation, adjusted for income and costs which are significant in nature and that management considers not reflective of underlying operational activities, mainly including net gains on disposal of long-term assets, negative goodwill from acquisition of
Adjusted EBITDA is defined as profit or loss before income taxes, net finance cost, exchange gains/(losses), depreciation, amortization, share based compensation and provisions and impairment losses adjusted for income and costs which are significant in nature and that management considers not reflective of underlying operational activities, mainly including net gains on disposal of long-term assets, negative goodwill from acquisition of
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